Hands selecting various types of colored leather for the production of high-quality Sioux shoes.

Leather types explained: Smooth leather, nubuck & suede

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Types of Leather Explained

Leather can look and feel very different. Besides the origin of the leather, its processing largely determines whether a smooth, velvety, or distinctly structured surface is created. Here, we present the most important types of leather for shoes and their typical characteristics.

Smooth Leather, Nubuck, or Suede – What's the Difference?

With leather, a distinction is made between the origin of the material and its surface treatment. Calf, cow, goat, or deer leather refer to the animal species. Smooth leather, nubuck leather, and velour leather, on the other hand, describe how the leather surface has been processed.

Smooth leather has a closed, smooth to finely grained surface and can appear matte or slightly shiny depending on its finish.

Nubuck leather is finely sanded on the grain side, creating its characteristic velvety and matte surface.

Velour leather is sanded on the flesh side and has a soft, more open fiber structure. Colloquially, it is often referred to as suede.

Which leather suits which shoe?

The type of leather used depends on the desired look, construction, and function of the shoe. Soft leathers, for example, are particularly suitable for supple moccasins, while sturdier leathers can give a shoe more structure.

Not only the type of leather is crucial, but also the quality and careful selection of the material. You can find out how Sioux selects its leathers and what requirements we place on them under [Our Leathers].

Types of leather at a glance:

Calf Leather

Calf leather is fine-fibered, soft, and supple. It can be processed in many ways and is particularly suitable for shoes where soft and adaptable leather is desired.

Cowhide

Cowhide is characterized by its natural grain structure and high durability. Depending on the finish, it can appear strong and distinctive or soft and flexible.

Lamb Nappa

Lamb nappa is particularly fine, light, and supple. Its smooth surface and soft feel make it a popular material for particularly soft shoes.

Deer Leather

Deer leather has a characteristic, lively grain and is exceptionally soft and flexible. High-quality deerskins are only available in limited quantities, making this leather a special material.

Goat Leather

Goat leather is light, flexible, yet durable. It is typical for its fine, distinctive grain structure.

Buffalo Leather

Buffalo leather has a strong fiber structure and a distinctive surface. Its robust appearance is particularly suitable for shoes with a casual and characterful look.

Nubuck Leather

For nubuck leather, the outer grain side of the leather is finely sanded. The velvety surface slightly changes its color effect when stroked, giving the leather a lively appearance.

Velour Leather

With velour leather, the flesh side of the leather is sanded. This creates a uniformly soft and fibrous surface. You can learn how to properly care for this type of leather under [Proper Velour Leather Care].

Hunting Leather

Hunting leather is a type of rough leather where the sanded flesh side faces outwards. The original grain side is on the inside of the shoe.

Patent Leather

Patent leather gets its smooth and high-gloss surface through a special coating. This creates an elegant, expressive look.

Fantasy Leather

Fantasy leather refers to leathers whose surface has been designed with embossing, metallic effects, or other special finishes. This can create a wide variety of structures and appearances.




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